An Evolving Adventure

One year and almost three months ago, I landed in Thailand. Wide-eyed and buzzing with that certain electricity that can only really come from doing something that terrifies and exhilarates, I took on what has become one of the greatest experiences in my life.

Today, though slightly more narrow in the eyes, I suppose, I am happy to say that electricity is still prickling it's way through my veins, though the adventure itself has surely evolved over time.


In two weeks time, I'll be wrapping it up here in Thailand and I will be making my way... running, flailing, free-falling, back into the arms of the States.  The decision that one year in Thailand was enough has come pretty easily for me. Contrary to popular belief, it is not all sunshine and elephant rides in the Land of Smiles and -- believe it or not -- it has actually been a struggle of immense proportions at many times along the road.

Don't get me wrong.

This country (and this trip as a whole) has presented so much undeniable beauty right smack in my face, and in so many different forms, that to honestly try and describe the enrichment I've received would require an attempt at a novel (which I will spare you from, mercifully).
The low cost of living has provided me the opportunity to travel to neighboring countries on budget itineraries. The Thai culture has simultaneously encouraged me to acknowledge the brilliance in a certain value system and allowed me to cling ever-so-tightly to my own. A group of 36 third grade students taught me about perseverance, patience, and Angry Birds... and proved to me that it is absolutely possible to fall head over heels in love with kids that aren't even your own. There has been excellent food, heaps of green tea, countless adorable puppies, friendly neighbors, and of course -- beaches. There have been beaches. Which I could never discount when relaying my favorite experiences in the wild year-long journey.

So I suppose, after a year plus of what would seem like "living the Thai lifestyle," it would make sense that pretty much everyone I know has the same, basic question for me:

"WHY IN THE HELL ARE YOU LEAVING?!?"


I'm willing to address this, but to do so I feel the need to provide a few, inalienable truths:

1.  I am not --contrary to popular belief-- a millionaire here. 
Living in Thailand does not automatically make you a "wealthy individual" and yes, I still struggle quite seriously with money. For the record, I made it to Thailand on my own dime and have since spent far more time working than island hopping (rightfully so).
In short: I worked my ass off, for not a whole lot. Most of the year was six workdays a week, 7-5, and tutoring on weekends. My salary, though decent by Thai standards, came to a little over $1,000 per month. For someone putting $500 in her US bank account to pay for student loans (screw you, Sallie Mae) each month, that doesn't leave much left to work with.
I'm not griping here, believe me, but please understand that what I buy I save up for and what I can't afford, which is a lot here in Bangkok, I sit and stare at and --like the rest of the world-- wish I were rich.

2.  The "Land of Smiles" is not --contrary to popular belief-- always smiling.
Like any ex-pat experiencing the ups and downs of assimilation into a different culture, I have had my share of frustrations with the Thai way of life. I won't go in-depth here (another novel, I suppose), but suffice to say that enough of the Thai cultural oddities are so far opposite of what I desire as a Westerner (or maybe just as me) that I have mastered the art of taking a deep breath, counting to ten, and reminding myself that maybe 'American' isn't such a dirty word after all.

3. I do not --contrary to popular belief-- ride an elephant to work.
Though I highly recommend a good jaunt on an elephant, I prefer motorbike. Or walking. It's not all Eat, Pray, Love out here, people. I have no shiny bicycle with which I ride through tropical forests on my way to visit my friends in charming banana-leaf huts. Rather, I walk through the various sois of constant noise, chaos, colors, smells, and sights and the occasional homeless person urinating or defecating on the sidewalk. It's not that it's bad out here, folks. It's just... Bangkok.

4. Contrary to popular belief... "Luck" had nothing to do with it.
I hear it so often, the whole "you're so lucky" comment. As if a whole life in Thailand and a job teaching and a million magical things have just suddenly chosen me out of a hat and plopped themselves in my lap. There is no mystical drawing of names, I assure you, and if there were I would absolutely guarantee you that my name would not be called. "Luck" has absolutely nothing to do with it.
I would say I have been fortunate. I would definitely agree that I feel blessed. But luck? No. Anyone who really knows me can attest to the fact that I am maybe both one of the unluckiest people they know and one of the hardest working people they know. It is the latter that has gotten me this far, believe me. Every trip, every venture, every decision to jump with eyes closed and pray to God it somehow works out... has come from countless hours/day/months spent worrying, stressing, planning, consulting, organizing, scheming, saving up, spending it all, and then repeating the process.
It is hard work to achieve a goal, and the road to achieving mine was no smoother or less painful.


That brings us here. An incredible year that has proved both enlightening and depressing in its moments, Stunning in its simplicity and yet has almost managed to destroy me on several occasions. Beautiful, messy, chaotic, stressful, fun. (If you're thinking this kind of sounds like the year you had, you're correct. It is honestly no different, remember that.)


And so, the adventure evolves. The hard work continues as Nathan and I plan the execution of the next big trip: the trip back Home. Through strategic flight purchases and a lot of penny pinching, we have planned a swing through Europe on our way back to America, and then a full-on East-Coast-to-West-Coast haul, ending up -finally- in Seattle, WA.
The Itinerary:
        Bangkok ---> Istanbul, Turkey
          Istanbul ---> Athens, Greece
           Athens ---> Crete
              Crete ---> Rome, Italy
             Rome ---> ??
        (Here we've decided to rent a car and cruise
       around Italy, staying at various campsites for
       cheap. Florence and Arezzo are top contenders)
          ??, Italy ---> Warsaw, Poland
          Warsaw ---> NYC, USA
              NYC ---> Detroit, MI
            Detroit ---> Chicago, Illinois
          Chicago ---> Lead, South Dakota
        (Here we'll be joining my lovely cousin Amy
        and driving/camping from IL to SD with her
        adorable little boy, Evan.)
               Lead ---> Richland, WA
         Richland ---> Seattle

The trip will take five weeks in total and needless to say, the electrical exhilaration current in my veins is pumping full speed.
The adventure is evolving and so am I and I can't help but be so grateful. Especially to you for reading, thus being a part of this crazy, humbling thing I call life. Thank you.


"Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me,
            as is ever so on the road."
        - Jack Kerouac, On the Road

The Ups & Downs of Island Hopping

On April 20^th I had the pleasure of hosting my ever-attractive sister Laura and her insanely likeable friend, Jessica, here in Thailand. Though their visit was all too short (only 7 quick days), I did my best to show them all I love (and as little as I could of what I loathe) about this unique country.

Jess & Laura, looking surprisingly perky as they head to the BTS

We started our journey with a couple brief days in BKK. Rallying well on the jet lag, the girls were game to experience Silom nightlife for some shopping and margaritas. 

The next day, we took the opportunity to explore some of the more “spiritual” locations in the city – namely the most infamous temples along the Chao Phraya River. This was a treat for me as well as, not only am I always a fan of a good boat trip, but in the year I’ve lived here I have yet to visit some of these most sought-after tourist hotspots. Ironic, actually, as I spent an entire semester teaching the history and cultural relevance of each one to my 3^rd graders as part of their social studies curriculum!

Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) was our first stop, and the most impressive in my opinion. The Buddha image residing in the temple easily deserves the term ‘massive,’ but is equally deserving of the word ‘important.’ Wat Pho is one of the largest and oldest wats in Bangkok, and a remains a popular place for pious Buddhists and gawking visitors alike. The temple is also the birthplace of the Traditional Thai massage (which none of us were quite so brave to endure).

   

The Reclining Buddha is one of the largest single Buddha images, measuring about 50 feet high and 160 feet long.

As amazing as the shining gold structure appeared, I found the intricate flood-to-ceiling wall murals to be just as mesmerizing, a tribute to the Thais extraordinary eye for detail.

Several people were making merit to Buddha while we were there

                             

Dwarves compared to the massive Buddha image

Mother of Pearl inlaid into the feet of the Buddha

From the outside of Wat Pho

Next stop was the Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) which we mainly enjoyed from a distance (sweltering heat and staunch temple dress-codes are not a match made in heaven). I smiled upon seeing it, remembering it as my students’ personal favorite temple. They loved the history of the wat’s decorative pieces; a collection of ceramics from the ballasts of old ships.

On the ferry on the way to Wat Arun

Wat Arun 

"Devil pigeon"

 

Goofin' around at Wat Arun... sorry Buddha :)

From there we ventured to Khao San Road, the busy backpacker district that I usually can stomach for only an hour at a time. It’s a great place to take visitors though, for its excess of shopping options and overall entertainment of hustling and bustling foreigners. Laura was particularly fond of a true Khao San favorite: the fresh fruit smoothie stand at one opening of the road. I think this was the first of about 30 amazing tropical fruit smoothies we each had on this trip, a quintessentially “Thai” experience I figured she would take a liking to. J

Caught a government bus out of the Southern Bus Terminal that night, preparing for a long overnight journey to Koh Tao (Turtle Island).

Of course as a host to my older sister (who has graciously hosted me on numerous occasions in numerous locations), there is quite a bit of pressure to make the journey as carefree and enjoyable as possible. Unfortunately, hosting in a foreign country (and one that is still quite ‘third-world’ nonetheless!) makes it often quite difficult – if not impossible – to predict the quality and consistency of each experience. Case in point: getting to Koh Tao.

My experience of Bangkok-to-island travel thus far has remained rather simple. One moderately comfortable overnight bus ride leads to one moderately comfortable ferry ride which leads to the island – Voila! Island getaway.

But the Thais seem to have this nifty way of taking organization and order and throwing them up in the air, only to intricate the Confetti of Chaos into a series of random experiences that (though confusing) do eventually get you where you need to go.
I should know this— I have been on a dozen various excursions in this country and see instances of it on a daily basis in mundane cab rides… so who am I to feel we could get away with a simple trip to Koh Tao (when I of all people am bearing the title of “host!”)? Silly, naïve Sarah.

So I had no explanation for why our bus had stopped in the absolute middle of nowhere at 4:30AM, announcing we were to switch forms of transportation (no pier in site.) I had no explanation as to where we were supposed to sit/relax/sleep in the small, fluorescently lit “bus stop” where we weren’t to be picked up for 3 more hours. I had no explanation for the large, steel songtaew truck –dubbed the “jail truck” by my sister— that picked us and about 20 other tourists up on the way to the pier. And I had no explanation for the snail-paced ferry ride that smelled of diesel fuel and lasted about 2 hours longer than it should have. No explanations, no suggestions. Except to attempt a smile, close my eyes, take a deep breath and repeat the mantra I’ve acquired to my guests: “Ahh… Good ol’ Thailand.”

By the time we reached Koh Tao we were thrilled to find that both our rented villa and its host, Belynda, were warm, comfortable, and inviting. The villa was stunning, set apart from the busier area of the island. With its own private pool and rainwater shower, large kitchen and (score!) free TV and movies, we instantly felt at home. My only regret is that we couldn’t have stayed at these villas longer. 

Living room area of the villa

Kitchen area of the villa

Private pool in our "backyard"

We got some visitors in the form of neighbor kids!

Narak maahk! (Very cute)

Bennett looking happy to have found a "home" on Koh Tao :)

Another visitor

Our short stay in Koh Tao included some fabulous meals (duck pate, passionfruit mojitos, oversized kabobs and yummy seafood), some sunset sea kayaking and a snorkeling trip off the coast of the island. I have always appreciated Koh Tao’s “quaintness” and the collective efforts of the islanders and visitors alike to maintain the islands innate, natural beauty. Some highlights of the trip:

Dinner at Barracuda's -- one of Belynda's many great suggestions!

Longtail boat to Koh Nang Yuan

Longtail boat to Koh Nang Yuan

Excited for some snorkeling on Koh Nang Yuan! 

Koh Nang Yuan

Koh Nang Yuan

Koh Nang Yuan

Koh Nang Yuan 

Koh Nang Yuan

That night, we enjoyed a fire dancing show at a local pub

 

Everyone got a chance to participate!

...and even try our hand at it!

Putting his Eskrima skills to good use!

Too soon after we arrived in Koh Tao, we were taking off to Koh Samui, another “short” ferry-ride away.  Samui has been a favorite of Nathan and I for some time now. Much larger than Koh Tao, the best way to get around is by your own form of transportation - so this time, we rented a car. An interesting experience, not only driving on the wrong side of the road (and in the wrong side of the car), but amongst wild, spastic Thai traffic. Kudos to Nathan, who put up with everything as elected driver -- including my nails gripping into him with fear when a car/motorbike/soi dog/sidewalk got remotely too close.

We spent two days in Samui, at one of my favorite locations on Mae Nam beach -- a little bungalow resort called Mae Nam Cheer. The privacy and beautiful setting of this beach make it a fantastic spot already, but one random little thing that makes this place a real treasure, is that they always seem to have a brand new litter of the most adorable island puppies, each time we come.

One of this year's latest litter.

Some of the Samui highlights included racing quads around a desert-like area of the island, riding elephants (time #3 for Nathan and I) through the jungle, and catching some pretty great sunsets along the way.  As usual, I feel photos do more justice than my rambling words:

Nathan and I on our lovely little elephant :)

Further testament to Nathan's driving skills. 

Getting "nosy"

I will take a moment to talk about what was possibly my favorite moment from the whole trip. As we ended our elephant ride and reached Namuang falls, a glow of saffron and gold caught my eye. The sound of laughter and splashing was the next thing I noticed, and as we made it to the bottom of the falls I saw them: An entire school of novice monks, taking a break from their studies to swim and relax in the shaded waterfall.

It's hard for me to explain why this scenario struck me so deeply. Part of it is the giddy, bold, and childish nature of these boys that I see reflected charmingly in most of the society of this culture. Part of it was the beauty of seeing a level of unanimity, piousness, purpose -- coming together to still just let loose and have fun. And part of it, of course, was the unexpected longing these boys gave me to be reunited with my 3rd grade class I had dedicated my life to this past year. 

Whatever it was that hit me, for this moment, by this waterfall, surrounded by boy monks splashing and laughing and cliff jumping one by one, I was on my own personal cloud nine. Such moments of peace and joy don't come as often as I'd like when living in Bangkok, a city that pulses loud, harsh, constant. And I suppose it's moments of peace and joy like this that we (or at least I) search for when going on holiday in the first place. If this is the case, at Namuang Falls that day I most certainly found what i was searching for.

                 

I loved how the color of their swimming trunks blended so nicely with the rust-colored rocks.

                 

Nathan takes a dip with the monks (I was too afraid of touching them by accident)

 

Big leaps

Three of the boys, giving their best impression of monks-to-be-taken-quite-seriously.

April Island getaway... a success.

Overall, the trip was pretty delightful. A big THANK YOU to my sister and Jessica for letting me cart them around the country and putting up with various insects and inconveniences along the way. You guys are troopers!

As my time in Thailand comes to an end, I'm not sure if I will ever make it back to these islands. But I thank God I've had the opportunity to visit them (some even more than once) and will hold on tight to each and every one of these delicious memories.